Marrakech – A hammam, definitely.
Hope didn’t hesitate on this one. A hammam is a traditional Moroccan public bathhouse, and the cleansing ritual is rooted in centuries-old customs.
- The ritual- Wash in a warm room, lather up with black olive-oil soap, then get scrubbed down with a rough glove called a kessa.
- Local or spa- Neighbourhood hammams are communal and vigorous. Hotel and riad spas are private and gentler.
- How long- About 30 to 45 minutes.
Then one night in the desert.
“It is a truly spiritual experience.”
Hope’s second highlight is a long way from her first, so it helps to know what you’re signing up for. Here’s the background on getting to the dunes and spending the night.
- Where the dunes are- The best-known dunes are Erg Chebbi, near Merzouga. Erg Chigaga, near M’Hamid, is the other main option.
- How far it is- Merzouga is about nine hours by road from Marrakech, or seven from Fes.
- The ride in- You ride the last stretch by camel and sleep at a camp in the dunes.
- What to pack- Desert nights get cold, so bring a warm layer. A scarf keeps the sand off your face.
Kefta sandwiches, hot from the fire.
Grilled kefta goes straight off the fire into freshly baked Moroccan flatbread, called khobz, alongside chopped tomatoes, onions and olives. Then comes a heavy smear of spicy harissa paste.
Kefta is minced beef or lamb, worked with herbs and spices, shaped by hand and grilled over charcoal. Harissa is a chilli paste, so ask for a lighter hand if you don’t like heat.
Good to know before you book.
- Tour days run long- If you’re on a tour, the bus driver has to stop every two hours, and the police enforce it. Hope says a 5 hour day can quickly turn into an 8 hour trip. So don’t book dinner or a connection tight against your arrival time, and keep water, snacks and something to read within reach.
- Bars are hard to come by- If you enjoy a glass of something alcoholic, Hope says you can be hard pushed to find a bar. Alcohol in Morocco is only served in licensed venues, such as some hotels, restaurants and bars. Drinking in the street is illegal, so keep it to places that are licensed.
The one thing she never travels without? Make that two.
- Offline maps, saved to your phone- Download the areas you’re visiting while you still have wifi. Old-town laneways are easy to get lost in, and signal can drop out in the mountains and the desert.
- A good book, “if not several”– Those long tour days have to be filled somehow.
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